Slow Speed
Slowing down and warming up. Busting the jetlag over a weekend in Padstow, Cornwall
Possibly from as early as 2,500 BC Padstow has been used as a natural harbour linking Brittany to Ireland along the 'Saints Way' from Fowey. Legend has it that St Petroc possibly one of the most important of the Cornish Saints arrived from Ireland around 520 AD and built a monastery on the hill above the harbour.1
Old Custom House is a gastro pub with rooms above. A view over the port, where many ships departed for the colonies with Cornish migrants, provides a never ending parade of fishermen, families crabbing and day trippers eating ice cream. The seagulls are as big as pelicans.
A salty ‘old mate busker’ outside my window sings sad folk songs into the dusk. As he finishes with his extended version of Cohen’s Alleluia intertwined with the bar noise downstairs I drift off to sleep. I don’t mind the background noise of a pub. I became a deft hand at that touring with bands in the 90s. The band, crew and I would stay for free in many East Coast pubs ‘upstairs’ with bunk beds and shared bathrooms. Thankfully, the St Austell Brewery folks don’t empty a gazillion glass bottles into a skip at 4am here!
I am grateful the first floor windows open. Hotel rooms without fresh air unsettle this Queenslander. I prefer decks, open windows and high ceilings. There are no less than four latches on each window and none lock. I consider that they would rattle like the sound of a muffler about to drop off when the north winds blow. No wind this weekend though, hooray! Sublime blue skies, calm seas and a gentle breeze.
It took three days transiting through Dubai, Heathrow, Gatwick and Newquay to arrive. Unlike previous travel when delays and long queues nudged the anxiety levels up, I had a dream run and worked my way through saved movies, tv shows, podcasts and meditation track loops.
I dropped my bags in room #6 and headed for the coastline. Sea air, blood pumping, I planted both feet on the earth and kept myself awake until the sun set to defeat the jetlag.
The next morning I had an entire sunrise to myself and whipped around the 3 mile (4.8km) Padstow to Harbour Cove walk before breakfast.
I paused in wonder at the disproportionate number of bench seats required for Padstonians - this spring day they were only occupied by ghosts’ names engraved on their plaques.
Sunday morning I walked the 5.5 miles (8.8km) Little Petherick Creek and Camel Trail walk to warm up for the main game next week. It was advised it is best walked at low tide 2 and lucky my timing was bang on. It was beautiful - through daffodil fields, woodland and vistas of the estuary. My walking boots and kit held up. Hooray.
With Monday’s dark moon an ideal ‘rest’ day, it was perfect to go down down the local history rabbithole. A couple of hours spent with Daphne and Barry in the Padstow Museum learning about the ancient Celtic fertility ritual, ‘Obby ‘Oss. A traditional ceremony still celebrated by local families on May 1st.
NB I have moved my adoption genealogy blog piece ‘Mors Janua Vitae - Death is the Door of Life’ here. It explains my deep connection with this part of the world.
An impromptu short ferry trip took me across the estuary to ‘The Rock.’ I was intrigued by this plaque inside St Michael’s Church at Porthilly.
I wonder where the money is today? There is still 757 years to go of that trust!
Reading : Enchantment : Reawakening Wonder in an Exhausted Age by Katherine May.
Listening : My Root Chakra playlist.
Eating : Padstow could be called Steinville. Rick Stein has raised the bar and it isn’t hard to find amazing seafood, gin cocktails and coffee all branded with Stein. Seriously, the best fish burger of my entire life (I have eaten many!) at the Rick Stein Fish and Chip Takeaway. Although my first meal was a simple delight. Local fresh crab and mayo sandwich on brown bread with a (large) glass of French Bassac white wine at Padstow Tasting Rooms. Yum. Pic on Instagram here.
Step Count : 47,793
Next : Walking the South West Coast Path : Padstow to St Ives over 9 days and 8 nights.
https://padstow-tc.gov.uk/history-of-padstow
The iWalk Cornwall app is brilliant for planning walks and navigation in real time.
Mmm that plaque, intriguing..